After a 10-year hiatus, In-Cosmetics returned to Amsterdam and, from all accounts, the global cosmetic trade show was welcomed back to The Netherlands with open arms. According to Reed Exhibitions, In-Cosmetics Global attracted more than 9,300 attendees who wandered the 16,634 square-meter show visiting with 655 exhibitors. There was certainly plenty to see, as Happi learned during its visits with several suppliers. Mibelle Biochemistry, for example, rolled out MossCellTec No. 1, which is based on the protonema culture of the moss Physcomitrella patens. According to Mibelle, the active maintains cell nucleus health that is a completely novel anti-aging concept. The cell nucleus contains the cell’s DNA and it is involved in regulating essential cellular processes.


Through in-vivo and in-vitro tests, MossCellTec No. 1 protects cell nucleus health markers, stimulates skin barrier markers, protects against damage caused by extreme temperature and humidity conditions, and decreases TEWL. The result is an anti-wrinkle effect on crow’s feet, as well as improved hydration, TEWL and skin color homogeneity despite climatic change, according to the company.


Silab, too, used In-Cosmetics Global as a launch pad for its newest active, Ecobiotys, which is rich in biopeptides derived from the yeast Metschnikowia reukaufii, which is obtained from the microbiota of the porcelain flower. When tested at 2.5% in vivo on mature Caucasian skin, Ecobiotys increased skin reflection by 9.5%, fresh complexion by 13%, healthy glow effect by 9.3% and rested eyes by 8.0%, according to the company.


Silab calls Ecobiotys a “smart” active ingredient, one capable of restoring the functional performance of the skin’s immune and mechanical barriers, and regulating the ecology of mature skin, acting on the distribution of bacterial communities.


Lonza Consumer Product Ingredients rolled out its line of bioactives that help protect skin from pollution, UV light and stress.

“We’ve done additional studies with our bioactive functional ingredients,” explained Jeff Rogers, VP-consumer product ingredients, in a statement. “We’ve generated data that substantiates new claims; we continue to innovate in the biofunctional space.”


Lonza highlighted three bioactives during In-Cosmetics Global: 

• NAB Rhodiola extract is a thermal protectant that provides antioxidant protection to skin from external stresses, including UV radiation;
• LactoPro CLP Bioactive is an advanced nutrient moisturizing complex containing Lactobacillus and soybean oil which help strengthen the skin barrier, enhance skin elasticity and retain moisture, all leading to healthier, vitalized and more balanced skin, according to Lonza; and
• Metabiotics Reserveratrol ECT GEO bioactive, a biotechnological ingredient said to improve skin radiance and youthfulness by reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

BASF had a big presence at In-Cosmetics Global, what with continuing its Palm Dialog and detailing new solutions against environmental stress and UV, and its latest research on the microbiome.


Seven new products debuted too, including new actives for skin and hair, and a vegan thickening polymer. Replexium, a skin-bioavailable synergistic complex of two patented peptides. Replexium works on various layers of the skin by targeting specific proteoglycans (lumican and syndecan-1) and collagen XVII. In vitro studies demonstrated Replexium’s ability to increase the synthesis of lumican, syndecan-1, collagen types I and XVII. In clinical studies, Replexium demonstrated its ability to significantly decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles: 11% after three weeks, and 23% after eight weeks. It also improved dermal density (21%) within three weeks, significantly faster than a peptide-benchmark.


BASF’s new DN-Age is said to slow down the graying process and hair loss, too. The active, derived from Cassia alata leaves, acts on the scalp by preventing UV-induced DNA damage. It also protects hair follicle cells and thus prevents hair graying and hair aging.


Finally, Rheocare XGN is the first polymer launched by BASF based on pure vegan xanthan gum. It is 100% based on renewable feedstock and GMO-free. Rheocare XGN is a powerful thickening agent and stabilizer for emulsion and surfactant based formulations. It creates crystal-clear formulations, has a high electrolyte and ethanol tolerance, can be processed cold and is easy to use even without neutralization step and has applications in cosmetic and oral care formulas.


Not all the newest ideas were chemical or biological, a few were mechanical. For instance, Courage + Khazaka Electronic, Koln, Germany, introduced Nail StrainStress Meter NM 100, which is the first device to measure, in vivo, the biomechanical properties of nails. The patented device analyzes mechanical properties of nails, such as firmness, elasticity and thickness, according to Georg Khazaka, president, Courage + Khazaka Electronic. The easy-to-use software is said to provide pain-free measurements, enabling cosmetic chemists to conduct clinical research of nail disorders, as well as other skin diseases accompanied by nail changes and the quantification of therapies.


Courage + Khazaka Electronic’s Nail StrainStress Meter NM 100 enables efficacy tests for all kinds of nail care products and formulations, providing the data necessary to create innovative product and marketing ideas, according to the company.


New Faces, New Places at DSM & Presperse

New ingredients and new faces were the word from DSM. Gareth Barker was introduced to the press as the new president of DSM Personal Care & Aroma Ingredients. He had been VP-human nutrition and health EMA at DSM. Also, Rishabh Pande was appointed senior director global marketing and innovation, Personal Care & Aroma Ingredients, and Parand Salmassinia was promoted to VP-global sales, Personal Care & Aroma Ingredients. All were on hand during an In-Cosmetics press conference to discuss stress-free beauty for consumers and product formulators, too.


For example, Bel-Even is a patented, synthetic molecule that helps counteract the damaging effects of stress on skin by inhibiting 11B-HSD1, an enzyme that generates cortisol in skin. Bel-Even is said to reduce the signs of stress on skin, while improving elasticity, density and hydration. Pollution, too, damages skin, but Pentavitin provides hydration to all facial areas. The results were apparent when DSM used novel visualization technology to study dry skin in Beijing. Researchers produced color images of women with excessively dry skin in the cheek and jaw area. Three hours after Pentavitin was applied, these areas were much better hydrated.


Presperse, too, has new leadership. In April, Koh Akiyama, Presperse’s president and CEO, returned to Tokyo to lead Sumitomo’s global cosmetics group as deputy general manager in the medical science department.  As reported in Happi, Paulo Rodrigues succeeded Akiyama as president and CEO of Presperse. During In-Cosmetics Global, company executives promoted key concepts and Presperse ingredients that help create them.


For example, Soft Focus powders mask imperfections and blur wrinkles and blemishes for an Instagram-worthy profile. A face and eye primer stick relies on Ganzpearl acrylate cross-polymers to create a soft-focus effect that can be used under makeup for a perfect canvas or alone. Similarly, Luxsil microspheres enable formulators to create a sheer and luminous face powder with soft focus properties.


Less Is More at Cargill Beauty

A year ago, at In-Cosmetics 2017 in London, Cargill Beauty made its debut. The company spent the past year conducting consumer research to uncover what consumers want in green and ethical cosmetics and delivering on that data with Cargill Beauty System 1.0 for Skin Care. Version 1.0 includes just three ingredients:

• Actigum VSX 20, a universal texturizer;
• Emultop Velvet IP, an innovative lecithin; and
• Agri-Pure AP-75R, a high oleic rapeseed oil.

Together, these ingredients enable formulators to create a variety of formulas in various textures and sensory dimensions, according to company executives. For example, by varying the formulation process or ingredient percentage, cosmetic chemists can produce creams that are fluid or thick, rich or light. According to Cargill Beauty, its systems approach enables cosmetic chemists to deliver a customized, affordable beauty portfolio that is transparent, simple and sustainable.


Expanding on its sustainability theme, Cargill is developing a sustainable and transparent red seaweed supply chain for carrageenans. The program aims to improve seaweed producers’ incomes and living standards while ensuring a sustainable and transparent global red seaweed supply chain. Cargill’s efforts are focused on several points: Empower seaweed producers, improve production and harvesting practices, and build community support and partnerships.


Seppic, too, is expanding its green portfolio. In-Cosmetics Global saw the debut of new emulsifiers and actives. Sepilife Nude emulsifying polymer contains 61% natural origin content; is EO-, preservative- and solvent-free; and cold processable and biodegradable. This quick-breaking emulsifier has a natural finish, making it a good addition to skin and sun care formulas, as well as makeup. Fluidifeel Easy is billed as a natural emulsifier for fast, easy and sensorial fluid formulations. With applications in skin care, sun care, hair care and makeup, Fluidifeel Easy is said to impart very white finished products with a comfortable feeling of emolliency without feeling heavy. It emulsifies all types of oil and up to 60% of the oil phase; furthermore, chemists can create sprayable formulas with Fluidifeel Easy.


Also in Amsterdam, Seppic rolled out two skin care actives. Sakadikum is extracted from rhizomes of wild butterfly ginger found on Madagascar. The material improves skin brightness (proven in vivo), regulates autophagy when exposed to blue light and UVA (in vitro) and protects skin when exposed to air pollution and internal stress (in vitro). Equibiome (Arctium lappa) is said to help prevent skin microbial imbalance and maximize the barrier function. At 1% use levels, Equibiome boosted moisturization by 56% after 21 days.


Naturex promoted two new actives during In-Cosmetics; one for skin care and one for oral care. Using its patented Eutectys extraction technology, the company obtained an active from the TCM Resurrection plant. The material, Hydranellys, is said to increase moisturizing and strengthening of the barrier function. In a clinical study, Hydranellys reduced TEWL and increased lipid content to improve stratum corneum moisture. Specifically, short-term (14 day) TEWL declined 14% and long-term (28-day) TEWL fell 28%. Water-holding functions of the skin improved due to an increase in cholesterol (+55%), triglycerides (+61%), ceramides (+52%) and squalene (+55%). As a result, stratum corneum moisture rose 19% after 28 days according to Naturex.


For oral care formulas, Naturex launched Bucovia, which it bills as a “natural, bio-guided fractionated active that effectively supports mouth health, with no biocide activity. By reducing Candida albicans virulence factors and biofilm-forming microorganisms, Bucovia reduced the microbial environments associated with oral candidiasis, dental caries, adult periodontitis, localized aggressive periodontitis and halitosis, according to Naturex.


More New Ideas

Dow Home & Personal Care used In-Cosmetics Global to launch AgeCap Smooth, which is said to soften the appearance of wrinkles, promote skin radiance and deliver skin smoothing effects—all confirmed in a double-blind, randomized, in-vivo study, according to the company. AgeCap Smooth works by trapping reactive oxygen species before they can damage skin.


And before UV rays can damage skin, New Soltex INO polymer enhances the performance of sun care products by improving the overall dispersion of titanium dioxide and other inorganic polymers.


Noting that the 2017 Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine was awarded to Jeffrey C. Hall, Michael Rosbash and Michael W. Young “for their discoveries of molecular mechanisms controlling the circadian rhythm,” Clariant launched B-Circadin at In-Cosmetics Global. Extracted from Lespedeza capitata, the material contains glycosylated flavonoids that are directly involved in circadian clock maintenance, according to the company. B-Circadin is said to resynchronize the circadian rhythm, regulate rhythm-dependent biological functions, improve rhythm-related Nrf2 detoxification pathway efficiency and control oxidative stress induced by blue light. The result? B-Circadin decreases signs of skin fatigue in just four days and improves skin complexion after one week.


New Eosidin is designed to reduce the effects of indoor air pollution, which include atopic-prone skin and hypersensitivity. The material is derived from green citrus unshiu, which contains synephrine and hesperidin, which are said to regulate eotaxin synthesis, and naringin, which decreases histamine release. At 2% and after 8 weeks, Eosidin reduced the atopic-prone condition by 50% and itchiness by 68%, noted Clariant.


Givaudan looked to traditional fragrance raw materials for new Vetivyne, which is billed as a skin youth booster. Derived from vetiver, the venerable root of many fragrance formulas, Vetivyne is said to act on the three main lipid sources in the skin to improve sebum production, keratinization and adipocytes’ ability to store fat. At 2%, the material improved lipid conformation by 20.5% and increased skin hydration by 7.3% after 28 days. Moreover, Vetivyne improved the long-lasting characteristics of fragrance by 25% during that time.


For several years, In-Cosmetics Global has served as a launch pad for new cosmetic raw materials. The Amsterdam version didn’t disappoint and you can bet that suppliers will have even more new ideas when In-Cosmetics Global reconvenes in Paris, April 2-4, 2019. •